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1964 Corvette Barn Find

admin — Sun, 23 Oct 2011 23:26:37 +0000

1964 Corvette - Barn Stored for 30 years

This '64 Corvette for sale was recently pulled out of storage after sitting for 30 years. It looks to be pretty much intact with the exception of some poor modification decisions by a previous owner. Luckily the original engine and transmission are still there, although the heads are long gone. But the block and intake are matching numbers, so that's a start. The frame is solid with only some minor surface rust to contend with.

Really the worst things about this car are the modifications by a previous owner. The fiberglass repair you see at the rear is where some hideous wing/spoiler thing was removed. The hood has been totally hacked up and is a disaster. It's like someone wanted to put stacks up through it or something. Or maybe some homegrown forced air induction system. Whatever the history it needs some expert patch work to be usable again. The rest of the body seams are still visible, so it's not likely it's had a ton of body work done to it.

In the end this is a great example of a second generation Corvette and will surely be restored. The damage done by the previous owner hurts to look at for sure, but isn't irreversible. With any luck this classic Corvette will be back and running in the near future.

Other 1964-1965 Corvettes for sale on eBay now:

Chevrolet Corvette 1964 Chevrolet Corvette Restored Gorgeous Runs Great No Disappointments
$12,445.00 (4 Bids)
♦♦ Ends in 6d 6h 56m ♦♦

Chevrolet Corvette Roadster 1963 Corvette Convertible
$14,100.00 (6 Bids)
♦♦ Ends in 4d 16h 18m ♦♦

Chevrolet Corvette Convertible Hardtop 1963 Corvette Convertible ONLY 31821 ACTUAL MILES
$45,900.00
♦♦ Ends in 4d 10h 10m ♦♦

Chevrolet Corvette Convertible 1963 Corvette Convertible 327 340HP Riverside Red Same Owner 40 Years
$69,999.00
♦♦ Ends in 4d 12h 55m ♦♦

Chevrolet Corvette Coupe Corvette 1963
$85,000.00
♦♦ Ends in 18d 17h 44m ♦♦

Chevrolet Corvette 1964 CORVETTE CONV 327 4 SPD BODY OFF RESTORATION
$1,000.00 (1 Bid)
♦♦ Ends in 6d 14h 17m ♦♦

Chevrolet Corvette CONVERTIBLE NCRS JUDGED S MATCHING 1963 TRIPLE BLACK CORVETTE
$1,963.00 (1 Bid)
♦♦ Ends in 6d 9h 30m ♦♦

Chevrolet Corvette 1964 CORVETTE MATCHING S L76 327 365 HP 31000 MILES
$13,100.00 (4 Bids)
♦♦ Ends in 6d 14h 17m ♦♦

Chevrolet Corvette Pro Street 1964 Corvette Pro Street ZL1 427 BDS 871 Blower Fuel Injected Show Quality
$20,100.00 (9 Bids)
♦♦ Ends in 6d 14h 12m ♦♦

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1970 Corvette Barn Find

admin — Sun, 23 Oct 2011 19:58:54 +0000

1970 Corvette Convertible

This Corvette has been in storage for more than 20 years. It's in pretty rough shape and in need of a skilled body man to smooth out that fiberglass skin. The front has obviously been in a wreck, but it doesn't look terrible. Unfortunately the original V-8 motor is gone, but the automatic transmission is still there. The interior is mostly complete, but has seen better days and needs to be replaced. On the bright side is still has it's 15x8 rally wheels.

Clearly this Corvette needs a total restoration, but once restored it will make a great driver. Hopefully whoever buys this Corvette for sale will bring it back to life.

Other 1970-1972 Corvettes for sale on eBay now:

Chevrolet Corvette STINGRAY COUPE PERFECTION 1972 CHEVROLET CORVETTE STINGRAY NUT BOLT FRAME OFF NUMBERS MATCH
$4,550.00 (4 Bids)
♦♦ Ends in 4d 16h 29m ♦♦

Chevrolet Corvette 2 door 1971 CORVETTE COUPE 454 BRIDGEHAMPTON BLUE
$10,100.00 (7 Bids)
♦♦ Ends in 2d 14h 5m ♦♦

Chevrolet Corvette Coupe 1972 Corvette LS5 Numbers Matching 454 Auto
$12,200.00 (2 Bids)
♦♦ Ends in 1d 18h 17m ♦♦

Chevrolet Corvette Stingray 1971 Chevrolet Corvette Convertible Brands Hatch Green Deluxe Interor Nice
$14,500.00 (11 Bids)
♦♦ Ends in 2d 11h 39m ♦♦

Chevrolet Corvette COUPE 1972 CORVETTE STINGRAY 454 CI LAST OF THE CHROME BUMPERS
$15,000.00
♦♦ Ends in 11d 16h 9m ♦♦

Chevrolet Corvette 1970 CORVETTE 350 V8 NUMBERS MATCHING AIR CONDITIONING POWER STEERING 75K MILES
$26,999.00
♦♦ Ends in 1d 11h 6m ♦♦

Chevrolet Corvette War Bonnet Yellow 1971 CORVETTE BIG BLOCK 454 with AC
$3,250.00 (3 Bids)
♦♦ Ends in 9d 15h 49m ♦♦

Chevrolet Corvette 1970 CORVETTE 350 350 HP 4 SPEED NUMBERS MATCHING
$3,494.00 (3 Bids)
♦♦ Ends in 6d 14h 17m ♦♦

Chevrolet Corvette roadster Convertble original 4 speed no chassis rust Other 1967 1969 1970 1971 1972
$4,100.00
♦♦ Ends in 4d 15h 1m ♦♦

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Best Corvette Books

admin — Sun, 05 Sep 2010 18:31:50 +0000

Corvette Book Reviews

When a car has as much history and popularity as the Corvette it will certainly get its share of print. Hundreds of books have been written about the Corvette trying to document and celebrate it's iconic tradition of being America's sports car. Some are simple "coffee table" books with lots of stunning photos, while others dig deep into the nuts and bolts to give you facts like production runs, VINS, "matching numbers", etc.

Here we'll give our recommendations for the top Corvette books.

Corvette Black Book 1953-2009

Selecting the Corvette Black Book as the first in our top list was a no-brainer. It's quite simply the consummate guide that every serious Corvette enthusiast must have. Think of it as the Cliff's Notes of every Corvette made since 1953. Its beauty lies in its efficiency. There's no flowery language or automotive anecdotes. It's just page after page of the straight facts for each and every year of Corvette production; pricing, production numbers, VIN, casting numbers, features, options, colors and trim. A comprehensive glossary gives a quick reference for all the typical Corvette terms and lingo. Also included is a time line of the significant dates in Corvette history as well as a year-by-year breakdown, including photos to help in identification.

The Corvette Black Book by Mike Antonick is republished each year to bring you the latest model year production numbers as well as any new information that may have come to light on the older models. Sized perfectly for traveling and a must have resource when looking at Corvettes for sale, this pocket guide is an essential part of any Corvette owner's library.

Corvette by the Numbers 1955-1982

Alan Colvin is well known in GM circles for his great "By The Numbers" series of books. They're a bible of sorts for those interested in verifying every little detail of their car. And his Corvette by the Numbers certainly lives up to his previous works.

This enormous book (600+ pages) is the product of years of exhaustive research through GM records, engineering specs, blueprints and Technical Service Bulletins. It contains simply everything you could want to know about which parts were used on which Corvettes and how to verify that those on your car are correct. This book is invaluable for those restoring the C1, C2 or C3 generation Corvettes. There's simply no better book to verify that the parts you're getting are correct for your exact car.

Corvette by the Numbers is made to confirm whether a Corvette is "matching numbers" or not. It starts with Corvette VIN decoding and then expands to give extremely detailed and researched casting numbers on virtually every coded hard part on your Corvette including engine blocks, cylinder heads, transmissions, starters, crankshafts, carburetors, water pumps, intake & exhaust manifolds, axles, wheels, harmonic balancers, radios, fuel injection components and more. And each of these sections is accompanied by detailed photos and/or diagrams helping explain exactly where to look on your car.

If you're a "numbers matching" kind of Corvette owner this book is not one you can live without.

Legendary Corvettes

There are so many Corvette books on the market that often volumes are simply more of the same rehashed photo books. But occasionally one comes along that just blows you away with it's detail, designer's layout and amazingly well researched history. "Legendary Corvettes: 'Vettes Made Famous on Track and Screen" is one such book of greatness. Fairly new the the Corvette book scene (published August 2010) this book features amazing photography and very artfully laid out pages. The design of this stunning book is as elegant as it's subject matter.

Legendary Corvettes is an in depth look at 18 of the most legendary Corvettes of all time. These are the amazing, historical, iconic... even mythical cars that have become part of the storied Corvette name. Some of these cars include the earliest surviving 1953 Corvette ever built; a C5 Corvette raced by both Dale Earnhardts (Sr. and Jr.); The 1959 CERV I and 1964 CERV II; Corvettes used in the TV series Route 66 and 13 more.

If only one Corvette book could grace your coffee table, this one should be it.

The Complete Book of Corvettes

Mike Mueller has done a superb job on this hefty 352 page volume documenting the great American Sports Car. It covers every model from 1953 to 2006 and does so in exhaustive historic detail. In addition to the great writing and interesting research, there are dozens of photos from the GM design archives that hadn't been published prior to this great book.

This is a book focused on Corvette history, not a "numbers" book designed to give you every casting number or VIN derivative. (See "Corvette by the Numbers" above for that) But it does it's job very well; which is to tell the fascinating story of the birth and maturity of a great American icon; the Corvette.

Just one note of warning. This book was published in 2006, so don't expect it to include the most recent few years of Corvettes.

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Corvette VIN Decoding

admin — Thu, 26 Aug 2010 06:59:18 +0000

How to decode Corvette Serial Numbers

When looking to purchase a Corvette for sale one of the first items on your list should be verifying the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number). It's a critical part of researching a used Corvette and it's important that you can decode and understand it. You need to know what information it provides, but also what it doesn't tell you about a car. The VIN is only the first step in confirming that the Corvette you're looking at is really what the seller says it is.

The VIN (sometimes called a serial number or body chassis number or simply vehicle number) is a unique number given only to that one specific car. It's used by the factory, motor vehicle departments, law enforcement and owners alike to identify that exact car. In addition it gives valuable info (depending on year) such as model year, when it was built in relation to other Corvettes that year, engine size and body style, including special editions such as the ZR1, Z06 and Grand Sports. Decoding the VIN is part of verifying a "matching numbers" Corvette.

VIN Locations

The VIN on a Corvette has always been stamped on a plate, although the location of that plate has varied over the years. From 1953 through early 1960 the VIN was located on the drivers side door post. For the rest of 1960-1962 it was on the steering column in the engine bay. 1963-1967 saw the VIN move again to the instrument support brace, below the glove box. In 1968 it moved to the top of the instrument panel, visible from outside looking through the windshield. From that point on it was either there or on the windshield support post (A-pillar)

In addition to the VIN plate, Corvette frames are stamped with the VIN in several locations not visible at a casual glance. These are to help law enforcement track down stolen vehicles and discourage VIN swapping.

Corvette VIN Decoding

Just like the location, the configuration Corvette VIN numbers has evolved through the years. The early years of 1953-1959 had a 10 digit VIN. 1960-1964 had 12 digits. 1965-1980 got an extra to bring it up to 13 digits. Then in 1981 the VIN increased to 17 digits which is where it remains today. Follow the links below for a breakdown on each specific year range.

1953-1959 Corvette VIN decoding (10 digits)

1960-1964 Corvette VIN decoding (12 digits)

1965-1971 Corvette VIN decoding (13 digits)

1972-1980 Corvette VIN decoding (13 digits)

1981-Present Corvette VIN decoding (17 digits)

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How to Decode a Corvette VIN :: 1953-1959

admin — Thu, 26 Aug 2010 06:46:28 +0000

When the Corvette first came out in 1953 the VIN was simple and to the point. It was made up of 10 digits giving basic information like model year, assembly plant and where that particular car fell in the production sequence. In 1953 only Corvettes were assembled at the Flint, MI plant. After that St. Louis became the home of the Corvette for decades until the move to Bowling Green in 1981.

1955 Corvette Example VIN - 10 digits (11 for V8 engines in 1955 only)

Prefix digit - V = V8 engine (The stamped "V" is larger than the other digits and used only in 1955 and only if the car had a V8)

1st digit - Model: Corvette (E in 1953-1956 & J in 1958-1959)

2nd+3rd digit - Model Year: 53 = 1953, 54 = 1954, 55 = 1955, 56 = 1956, 57 = 1957, 58 = 1958, 59 = 1959

4th digit - Assembly Plant: S = St. Louis, F = Flint (1953 only)

5th-10th digits - Production Sequence Number: 1953-1956 started at 001001. 1957-1959 started with 100001. Each Corvette produced was assigned the next number in sequence. Last sequence number should equal total production for that year in almost all cases.

Decoding the VIN is just the first step when looking at potential Corvettes for sale. It's also important to confirm "matching numbers" (ie. verify original equipment like engine, transmission, axles, etc. )

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How to Decode a Corvette VIN :: 1960-1964

admin — Thu, 26 Aug 2010 06:45:52 +0000

In 1960 Chevrolet changed the Corvette VIN configuration, going to a 12 digit VIN instead of the previous 10 digit. The added 2 digits distinguish between coupe and convertible body style. However, there was still no digit specifying 6 or 8 cylinder engine. This wouldn't be added until the 1965 Corvette.

1960 Corvette Example VIN - 12 digits

1st digit - Model Year: 0 = 1960, 1 = 1961, 2 = 1962, 3 = 1963, 4 = 1964

2nd+3rd digit - Model: 08 = Corvette

4th+5th digits - Body Style: 37 = Coupe, 67 = Convertible

6th digit - Assembly Plant: S = St. Louis

7th-12th digits - Production Sequence Number: Starts at 100001 with each Corvette produced being assigned the next number in sequence. Last sequence number should equal total production for that year in almost all cases.

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How to Decode a Corvette VIN :: 1965-1971

admin — Thu, 26 Aug 2010 06:19:04 +0000

In 1965 the Corvette VIN configuration was changed from the earlier 1960-1964 format. There were now 13 characters, although the basic information remained the same as previous years, just rearranged slightly in their order. The basic information was still shown including year, body style and order in the production sequence. The 3rd digit now signified a V8 engine, but not which one. Later in 1972 the engine digit would become more informative and specify size and horsepower rating.

1965 Corvette Example VIN - 13 digits

1st digit - Make/Manufacturer: 1 = Chevrolet

2nd digit - Model: 9 = Corvette

3rd digit - Engine: 4 = V8 (all engines)

4th+5th digits - Body Style: 37 = Coupe, 67 = Convertible

6th digit - Model Year: 5 = 1965, 6 = 1966, 7 = 1967, 8 = 1968, 9 = 1969, 0 = 1970, 1 = 1971

7th digit - Assembly Plant: S = St. Louis

8th-13th digits - Production Sequence Number: Starts at 100001 with each Corvette produced being assigned the next number in sequence. Last sequence number should equal total production for that year in almost all cases.

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How to Decode a Corvette VIN :: 1981-Present

admin — Tue, 24 Aug 2010 05:45:30 +0000

Starting in 1981 GM added several characters to the Corvette VIN to bring the total up to 17 digits. Thankfully this new longer VIN helps standardize the decoding process and has remained mostly the same for almost 30 years now. Those extra characters also allowed GM to give more information about each car. Special options like the ZR1 are now easily verified by VIN, which can be a big help when researching Corvettes for sale.

1986 Corvette Example VIN - 17 digits

1st digit - Country of manufacture: 1 = United States

2nd digit - Manufacturer: G = General Motors

3rd digit - Make: 1 = Chevrolet

4th digit - Body Series: A or Y = Corvette ('A' used in 1981-1984, 'Y' used from 1985-present)

5th digit - Additional Info: Y in most cases, but Z for ZR-1 (1991-1995) and R for ZR1 (2009)

6th digit - Body Style:

7th digit - Restraint System:

8th digit - Engine: See below for list of engine codes by year

9th digit - Random Security Number: This number varies randomly from car to car

10th digit - Model Year: B = 1981, C = 1982, D = 1983, E = 1984, F = 1985, G = 1986, H = 1987, J = 1988, K = 1989, L = 1990, M = 1991, N = 1992, P = 1993, R = 1994, S = 1995, T = 1996, V = 1997, W = 1998, X = 1999, Y = 2000, 1 = 2001, 2 = 2002, 3 = 2003, 4 = 2004, 5 = 2005, 6 = 2006, 7 = 2007, 8 = 2008

11th digit - Assembly Plant: 5 = Bowling Green, S = St. Louis (used only on 1981 Corvettes which were made at both plants)

Engine VIN codes by year:

1981 -   6 = L81 (5.7L, 190 hp)
1982 -   8 = L83 (5.7L, 200 hp)
1983 - N/A
1984 -   8 = L83 (5.7L, 205 hp)
1985 -   8 = L98 (5.7L, 230 hp)
1986 -   8 = L98 (5.7L, 230 hp)
1987 -   8 = L98 (5.7L, 240 hp)
1988 -   8 = L98 (5.7L, 240 hp)
1989 -   8 = L98 (5.7L, 240 hp)
1990 -   8 = L98 (5.7L, 245 hp), J = LT5 (5.7L, 375 hp)
1991 -   8 = L98 (5.7L, 245 hp), J = LT5 (5.7L, 375 hp)
1992 -   P = LT1 (5.7L, 300 hp), J = LT5 (5.7L, 375 hp)
1993 -   P = LT1 (5.7L, 300 hp), J = LT5 (5.7L, 405 hp)
1994 -   P = LT1 (5.7L, 300 hp), J = LT5 (5.7L, 405 hp)
1995 -   P = LT1 (5.7L, 300 hp), J = LT5 (5.7L, 405 hp)
1996 -   P = LT1 (5.7L, 300 hp), 5 = LT4 (5.7L, 330 hp)
1997 -   G = LS1 (5.7L, 345 hp)
1998 -   G = LS1 (5.7L, 345 hp)
1999 -   G = LS1 (5.7L, 345 hp)
2000 -   G = LS1 (5.7L, 345 hp)
2001 -   G = LS1 (5.7L, 350 hp), S (Z06 only) = LS6 (5.7L, 385 hp)
2002 -   G = LS1 (5.7L, 350 hp), S (Z06 only) = LS6 (5.7L, 405 hp)
2003 -   G = LS1 (5.7L, 350 hp), S (Z06 only) = LS6 (5.7L, 405 hp)
2004 -   G = LS1 (5.7L, 350 hp), S (Z06 only) = LS6 (5.7L, 405 hp)

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Transport your Corvette

admin — Sat, 29 Aug 2009 22:12:26 +0000

Finding a Car Transport Company for your Corvette

When you start looking for transport companies to get your newly acquired Corvette safely back home you’ll find you have plenty of choices. Enough in fact to make narrowing it down pretty confusing. As with most things you get what you pay for with transport services, so don’t make your decision based solely on price. You've spent countless hours searching hundreds of Corvettes for sale. When you finally find the perfect one, bringing it home should be an exciting experience. Don’t risk starting it off poorly by using a cheap transport company that ends up damaging your car.

A good way to find a reliable transport company is to check with local Corvette clubs or online Corvette forums. You’ll typically find several members who have used different companies and can give recommendations; either for or against. Classic car publications such as Hemmings Motor News or Corvette Monthly are also good sources, but there’s no substitute for personal recommendations.

Be sure to find out if the company you’re talking to actually owns the trucks or if they’re only a broker that contracts out to the lowest bidder. Usually you want to contract directly with the actual hauling company, not a broker. If there’s a problem you want the hauling company to be responsible directly to you, not a middle man (broker) that you may or may not be able to get in touch with.

Compare Costs

Just like with Corvette financing, find at least 3-4 companies and then get quotes to compare. Many will have web sites where you can get online quotes, but don’t make a final decision until you’ve called and talked to a live person to confirm. There may be fine print or limitations that the online quote doesn’t make apparent. Be aware that quotes assume the car to be transported is in good running condition, so they can drive it on to the truck and rearrange all the cars they’re hauling as needed from stop to stop. A non-running car will cost you more to transport because it involves more time and equipment to winch the car on and off the trailer.

Most quality auto transporters will be roughly in the same price range. A quote that’s significantly less then the others is a red flag that you may not be happy with their service or timing. Don’t make your decision based on price alone. The old adage of ‘you get what you pay for’ certainly applies to transport companies.

Types of Transport Trucks

When researching price you need to be aware of the different types of trucks in order to properly compare apples to apples. The style of truck you use can be dependent on the car you ship. You need to understand if your Corvette has special needs which would affect the shipping price.

Open Trailers – Open transports will be the least expensive option, but also the least secure. You risk potential damage from road debris, weather and vandalism. These can also be tough on convertibles, especially if it’s a classic Corvette with an aging top. Open trailers would be a good choice for a project car or daily driver still needing a full restoration. A show car or freshly painted restoration really has no business on an open trailer. Most transport companies will quote an open trailer unless you ask specifically for enclosed, so keep this in mind when getting initial quotes.
Enclosed Trailers – An enclosed transport will be a hard sided, fully enclosed box that your Corvette gets driven into. These trailers fit only 3-4 cars typically, as opposed to 8-10 on an open trailer. This makes an enclosed trailer the most expensive option, but for obvious reasons it’s also the most secure. You won’t have to worry about hail storms, rock chips, parking lot theft or gale force wind buffeting your recent purchase. Any high dollar car or recent restoration should be shipped using an enclosed trailer.
Curtain Sided Trailers – Sometimes called “soft sided”, these are a hybrid between the open and fully enclosed trailer options. Typically these trailers are surrounded by flexible plastic or fiberglass panels. They aren’t quite as secure as a hard sided trailer, but do a good job protecting against weather and road debris.

In addition to the type of protection the trailer offers, you need to be aware of the loading style it uses; ramps or lift gate.

Ramps – Ramps are the norm for open trailers and some curtain sided. As the name implies, they use metal ramps to drive your Corvette up onto the trailer. For some cars this is fine, but keep in mind that the loading angle can be steep. Corvettes with low ground clearance can be a problem. The same goes for front spoilers, ground effects, low exhaust outlets, etc. Also, high performance Corvettes with lopping cams and tons of torque may be tough to inch up the metal ramps without spinning the tires or jolting forward. And if you expect snow or ice at either the pick up or drop off location the metal ramps on an open trailer can become extra tricky to navigate.
Lift Gate – The more expensive fully enclosed trailers will typically have a lift gate instead of ramps. This is by far the better way to load up a car, and may be the only way for some low to the ground cars. A lift gate is a platform that lowers to the ground, you drive the car onto it, and then it’s raised hydraulically to the level of the trailer floor. Basically it’s a car elevator. There are no steep angles or slipping ramps to consider.

Door-to-Door vs Terminal-to-Terminal

Another decision that will affect cost is whether you chose door-to-door transport or terminal-to-terminal. It’s certainly more convenient for you if the truck picks up at the seller’s house and drops off at yours, but also more expensive. Expect $400 or more of a premium for door-to-door service.

If using door-to-door then think about the road conditions the truck will encounter, both at pickup up and drop off locations. Are there physical limitations that would impede the truck’s access? Remember these are big, long rigs; typically 75’ or longer. Steep or long driveways, dead ends with no turn around, dirt roads or overhead restrictions like low trees or bridges can cause problems on pickup day. If the driver sees that he can’t get to either the pickup or drop off locations he’ll have to make alternate arrangements, like meeting you at a nearby parking lot. This will be at best an inconvenience to you and at worst an additional cost and delay.

Terminal-to-Terminal - You may be able to save considerably if you can arrange for the car to be taken to the transport facility and then pick it up and the corresponding facility nearest you. If these transport hubs (terminals) are close to both you and the seller, then this can be a good option and save some money. This is something you should discuss with the seller during the bidding process to see how much extra effort they’ll be willing to put in to sell the car.

Timing and Schedule

It’s important to understand that you can’t call for a transport to pick your car up next Tues and then drop it at your door 2 days later. Transport companies don’t work that way. In order to make money they need full trucks. They have to coordinate picking up and dropping off several cars to and from several different cities spread out all over the country. They consolidate where possible of course, but they still can not make deliveries in tight time frames. Expect your pickup window to be several days or even weeks. Drop off will be the same way. It could happen within days of the pickup, but more likely it will be a week or more, even if the car is only travelling 2 states away.

What this means, in addition to you not getting your car immediately, is that you probably will have to arrange temporary storage at the seller’s location. From the date you and the seller exchange money and title it could be a week or more before the transport company can be there to pick up. Of course you should have the car insured at this point (more on that later) but the bigger problem is actually storing the car. If you have a good feeling about the seller and he has the ability, you can have him keep the car until the transport arrives. But understand that as soon as you pay for it the car is yours. Anything that happens to it while waiting for pickup is technically your responsibility. Even with that being the case, many sellers won’t want to even take the chance of liability and will want the car gone as soon as they sell it.

If the seller won’t store the car for you (or you don’t feel comfortable having them do so) then you’ll need to find storage elsewhere. Check with a local storage facility. They should either have a storage room large enough for a car or parking spaces specifically set up to store cars. The value of your new Corvette will dictate which option you use. Keep in mind that even though the storage lot may be fenced, parking outside still leaves your car vulnerable. Also, someone needs to be at the location to meet the transport driver and sign off on the bill of lading.

Another storage option may be terminal yard controlled by the transport company. If you can arrange for the car to get to their yard, then you can check it in there and leave it until the truck arrives for pickup. There’s likely to be an extra charge for this, but it may be offset by the fact that their truck doesn’t have to pickup at the seller’s house. Door to door deliveries are more costly.

What is a Bill of Lading?
The BOL is the contract between you and the transport company. It describes to you and the transport driver the specifics of shipping your car. It includes costs, identifies the car to be shipped (including VIN and mileage), notes damage and general condition of the car (Condition Report), sets pickup and drop off locations and dates (specific or ranges) as well as any special conditions. Basically it identifies the package (your car) and tells the driver what to do with it.

Insurance During Transport

Always, ALWAYS have insurance on your newly purchased Corvette starting from the minute you make payment. This applies in all cases, even if the seller is just across town. It’s even more critical if you’ll be transporting it across the country. It might surprise you that most transport companies carry insurance only to cover driver negligence. This means if a rock cracks your windshield or a freak hail storm hits or even if your car is vandalized in a parking lot, it’s not covered. That’s why you need your own insurance in place as soon as you own the car. And remember, this may include days or weeks before you actually take possession. As soon as the title is signed over to you, the responsibility is now yours. Even if the seller offers to keep the car in their garage until the transport truck arrives, his insurance won’t cover it.

So arrange to have your new Corvette covered by your own insurance with a quick phone call. As soon as you’ve won the auction call your insurance company and have them set up a policy, but not activate it yet. This way you can give them all the info they need ahead of time. Then, days or weeks later when you actually close the deal you simply need to make a quick call to your insurance company and have them activate the new policy. When talking to your insurance agent explain that you’ll be transporting the car to your location. They may recommend specific coverage for just the short time the transport company has possession of your new car. Cost on this type of coverage should be negligible.

By doing some legwork ahead of time you’ll only have to make a 5 minute phone call to sleep well at night while your new Corvette is traveling across the country.

While on the subject of insurance provided by the transport company, you should read their policy carefully. Some will limit their liability, even if they are at fault for the damage. Try to avoid such a limit, but if you can’t avoid it at least be sure the maximum amount is more then the purchase price of the car. It’s also important to understand what procedures they require you follow should there be a problem. They may have deadlines for reporting damage or special requirements for giving them notice (ie. certified mail). Of course you hope to never have to use this information, but it’s important to not be surprised by some limitation should damage occur.

Pickup Procedure

Ideally you would be there personally to supervise both the pickup and drop off. However, often this just isn’t feasible. Either way, someone (possibly the seller) will need to meet the transport driver when the car is picked up. The driver will do a walk around and make note of any existing damage to the car. This will be recorded on the Bill of Lading. Upon delivery they’re repeat this check to verify nothing has happened during transport. The car should be recently washed to make the inspection easier. Any items that might be potentially damaged (like antennas) should be removed or completely retracted.

Often the sale of a classic Corvette will include some extra parts. Maybe they’re parts needed to finish a restoration or factory original parts (like carburetors or wheels) that need to be kept should the car be returned back to original condition. Keep in mind that most transport companies will not want to hassle with these, arguing that it’s illegal to transport loose items inside a car being hauled. Certainly they won’t be responsible for them. If you can’t get them home any other way at least package them up securely and stow them in the trunk with tie downs so they don’t move around and aren’t visible.

Taking Delivery

It will be an exciting moment when that big lumbering truck finally pulls in front of your house with your new Corvette on it. But don’t get so excited that you neglect a few house keeping items. Once the car is unloaded do a thorough walk-around looking for any damage. The transport driver should be doing the same thing. He did a similar inspection at the pickup location and will need to verify that no new damage has occurred during transport. Once off the truck, start the car up and drive to the end of the block and back. It’s rare that any mechanical damage would occur, but if your car was ramp loaded the driver could have smoked the clutch or tweaked the suspension. Of course it’s critical that you know the condition of the car as it left the seller’s house. If you bought your Corvette sight unseen then you can only rely on the seller’s photographs (or hopefully video) to compare any problem areas.

Hopefully your inspection won’t reveal anything, but if it does you need to let the driver know immediately and in writing. You also need to document the damage (and the rest of the car while you’re at it) with photos and/or video. Again, do this in the presence of the transport driver so there will be no discrepancy later. Getting a shot or two with the driver and truck in the frame won’t hurt either.

In summary, remember that price should not be your sole, or even primary consideration when selecting a transport company. Getting your new toy delivered may not be cheap, but remember the cost in the context of your purchase. A Corvette is not an inexpensive vehicle and corners shouldn’t be cut in protecting your new investment. You now have the knowledge to be selective and informed when hiring a transport company. By understanding the process and planning ahead your new Corvette should have an uneventful journey and then be safely tucked away in your garage.

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How to Decode a Corvette VIN :: 1972-1980

admin — Mon, 10 Aug 2009 16:41:45 +0000

Chevrolet changed the VIN configuration around again in 1972. It was still 13 digits like in 1965-1971, but the order of characters and their meaning was switched around a bit. The basic information was still shown including year, body style and engine. Decoding the VIN should always be one of your first research tasks when looking at potential Corvettes for sale.

1972 Corvette Example VIN - 13 digits

1st digit - Make/Manufacturer: 1 = Chevrolet

2nd digit - Model: Z = Corvette

3rd+4th digits - Body Style: 37 = Coupe, 67 = Convertible, 87 = Coupe (1978-1980)

5th digit - Engine: See below for list of engine codes by year

6th digit - Model Year: 2 = 1972, 3 = 1973, 4 = 1974, 5 = 1975, 6 = 1976, 7 = 1977, 8 = 1978, 9 = 1979, A = 1980

7th digit - Assembly Plant: S = St. Louis

8th-13th digits - Production Sequence Number: Starts at 5100001 with each Corvette produced being assigned the next number in sequence. In the example above the first 1972 Corvette VIN ends in 500001 and the last ends with 527004. The Production Sequence Number changed to 4100001 after 1972.

Engine VIN codes by year:

1972 - K = base (350 cid, 200 hp), L = LT1 (350 cid, 255 hp), W = LS5 (454 cid, 270 hp)
1973 - J = L48 (350 cid, 190 hp), T = L82 (350 cid, 250 hp), Z = LS4 (454 cid, 275 hp)
1974 - J = L48 (350 cid, 195 hp), T = L82 (350 cid, 250 hp), Z = LS4 (454 cid, 270 hp)
1975 - J = L48 (350 cid, 165 hp), T = L82 (350 cid, 205 hp)
1976 - L = L48 (350 cid, 180 hp), X = L82 (350 cid, 210 hp)
1977 - L = L48 (350 cid, 180 hp), X = L82 (350 cid, 210 hp)
1978 - L = L48 (350 cid, 175 hp), X = L82 (350 cid, 220 hp)
1979 - 8 = L48 (350 cid, 195 hp), 4 = L82 (350 cid, 225 hp)
1980 - H = LG4 (305 cid, 180 hp), 8 = L48 (350 cid, 190 hp), 6 = L82 (350 cid, 230 hp)

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